A Simple Strategy for Healthy Dog Weight-loss

In pursuit of a healthier, happier canine companion, a simple pet weight-loss strategy can make all the difference.

1. First start by calculating the calories your dog needs each day. You’ll first need to have your dog examined by your veterinarian to evaluate their body condition and Body Condition Score (BCS) target calculated. Based on your pet’s degree of excess weight, you may choose a target weight higher than the ideal weight to start.

My general guidelines for safe weight loss in dogs are 3-5% body weight loss per month. A basic formula for weight loss in dogs that your veterinarian may use: 

The ideal or target weight in pounds divided by 2.2 gives you weight in kilograms (kg).

Calculate the Resting Energy Requirements (RER) based on this ideal or target weight:

RER in kcal/day = RER in kcal/day = (ideal or target weight in kg ^ 0.75) x 70

or 

(ideal or target weight in kg) to the 3⁄4 power) x 70

or

30 x (body weight in kilograms) + 70

Link to daily calorie charts and other pet weight loss resources at APOP here. 

For weight loss in otherwise healthy dogs without any underlying secondary conditions, feeding the RER calories for the step-weight loss target weight (or ideal weight in some cases) should be adequate. In cases that fail to respond to this number of calories, the total will need to be reduced.

I also recommend daily 30-minute walks for dogs and three 5-minute play time periods for cats, but I firmly focus on feeding the correct number of calories during this initial weight loss phase. During the early phase of weight loss, food far exceeds exercise in shedding excess fat. If you want an easy way to remember it, weight loss in dogs (and people) is about 60-70% diet, and 30-40% exercise. For cats, it’s about 90% what and how much you feed, and only 10% activity. A healthy weight is won or lost at the pet food bowl.   

2. The most common complaint is begging. Habits are hard to change, so we need to offer some solutions to these sorts of behaviors. I like automated feeders, especially those that prevent food stealing, set to dispense food four to six times a day (I’m looking at you, 2 a.m.). 

Protein promotes satiety. Adding a high-protein “midnight snack” at bedtime can delay nighttime pounces, howling, and whining in many pets, at least until 5 a.m. 

In addition, whole, fresh, crunchy veggies such as baby carrots, cucumber, zucchini slices, and green beans work well as low-calorie snacks for dogs.  

When it comes to doggie snacks, my most common tip is: “Dogs don’t do division. Take whatever treat you’re feeding and break into halves or thirds.” Dogs aren’t as good at math as they are at making pleas for more.  

3) At the 90-day veterinarian recheck, if we see positive results and the pet parent is satisfied, there’s no need to change for another 90 days. If we feel we can do better and the patient is healthy, I may further reduce the calories, but only slightly. We can’t risk creating nutritional deficiencies for the sake of cutting calories. If I can’t reduce calories, I often try to alter the dog food formulation as radically as possible. Higher protein to higher-fiber, dry to wet, that sort of change. 

If we’re encountering a weight loss plateau, especially common in dogs after six months or more, I emphasize adding more physical activity. Slow, aerobic activity such as walking is changed to several brief, anaerobic efforts such as playing fetch, running hills, “fast-and-slow” games (intervals or tempo work), or swimming (utilizing different muscle groups). Agility training, treadmills, and equipment that places a dog on uneven surfaces and encourages core strength are also excellent choices for stubborn weight loss cases or the “final 5 percent.”

4) Don’t chase a number on a scale. Focus on improving quality of life (“I think Chloe feels better!”), mobility and ability (“He can get in the car on his own!”), and the knowledge that you’re reducing your dog’s risk of disease and easing pain. 

What are the activities you believe have lessened due to your dog’s weight gain? Have you observed any signs of pain or discomfort? What do you hope to accomplish by helping your dog attain a healthy weight? These are the most important metrics I use to initiate a plan and measure clinical success.         

Patience, flexibility and creativity are the cornerstones of a successful pet weight loss program. Treating a disease as complex as pet obesity is never easy, and that’s part of the challenge and appeal to me as a veterinarian and dog food company. My goal is to help veterinary professionals and pet parents shift their attitudes, opinions, and actions about nutrition and obesity toward understanding obesity is a disease, disease prevention strategies, and the impact of diet and lifestyle on quality of life and longevity. Your job as a pet parent is to continue caring for your beloved pets to the fullest of your ability, striving toward a state of optimal health. Working together, we can help you navigate the bewildering world of pet nutrition and provide the best evidence-based advice possible, one pet at a time - your pet.

Skinny isn’t the new healthy; healthy is the new healthy. Health isn’t about chasing a number on a scale; it’s about reaching an optimal state of wellness. It all starts by recognizing where you or your pet are today and creating a plan for tomorrow.     

How to tell if your pet needs to lose weight

To determine your dog or cat’s healthy weight, your veterinarian will conduct a series of measurements and assessments to calculate your pet’s body condition score (BCS). Here is a simplified description of a dog or cat’s body composition or BCS:

Underweight 

Ribs - easily felt with no fat covering

Tail base - bones are raised with little tissue between the skin and bone

Side view - abdominal tuck

Overhead view - significant hourglass shape

Ideal body composition 

Ribs - easily felt with slight (1/2”) fat cover

Tail base - smooth but bones can be felt under a thin layer of fat

Side view - abdominal tuck

Overhead view - well-proportioned waist is present

Overweight

Ribs - difficult to feel with moderate (>1/2”) fat cover

Tail base - some thickening or widening but bones can be felt under a moderate layer of fat

Side view - no abdominal tuck or waist

Overhead view - back is slightly broadened

Obesity 

Ribs - difficult to feel under thick fat cover

Tail base - thickened and difficult to feel under a thick layer of fat

Side view - fat hangs down from the abdomen and there is no waist

Overhead view - markedly wide

Visit www.petobesityprevention.org for more tips on how to keep your pet healthy.